The post The Best Thing I Ate This Month: The Leeks at Bar Gobo appeared first on Vancouver Magazine.

Go for Croque

West Vancouver’s new French restaurant, Mèreon, is worth braving the bridge for: the croque monsieur, croque madame and croque forestièr put standard sandwiches to shame. The brunch spot also serves duck confit cassoulet and a burger made with teriyaki prime rib, gruyère and bacon. mereon.ca

Opened January 2024 | 1479 Clyde Ave., West Vancouver

Morning Glory

Single-boned chicken wings, BBQ pork rice and ginger-sauced beef vermicelli are all on the menu at Ho Yuen Cafe, a half-century- old Hong Kong breakfast/lunch restaurant that has officially landed in Vancouver. Pineapple buns, here we come. hoyuencafe.ca

Opened February 2024 | 113-1750 W 75th Ave.

Veggie Tales

The restaurateurs behind Kissa Tanto and Bao Bei walk into a bar… and that bar is Meo, the newest concept from the much-awarded team. Meo’s drinks menu is meant to defy traditional expectations of fruits and vegetables. What the heck does that mean? We’ll have to sip and see. meochinatown.com

Opened March 2024 | 265 E Pender St.

The post Now Open: Mèreon, Meo and Ho Yuen Cafe appeared first on Vancouver Magazine.

Via Tevere is easily one of the best pizzerias in the city (they’re a finalist in the Reader’s Choice division of our 2024 Restaurant Awards, get your tickets for the May 6th celebration now!), so this is exciting news, to say the least. But we loved Grano—it was one of our top picks for plant-based eats on Main last year—so the news is bittersweet. Other recent restaurant closures (the Arbor’s graceful exit, Heirloom’s burn-it-to-the-ground flamewar) point to an unfortunate trend for Vancouver vegans.

Don’t cry your ethical tears just yet, though. Grano’s menu will still be available at the new Via Tevere on Main Street. So, we’re not really losing any of that plant-based goodness, merely gaining a menu of tried-and-true favourites. Grano manager Katie Mantei is still on board at Via Tevere Main Street so the 32-seat restaurant (with a 12-seat side patio and 12-seat curbside patio) is set for a smooth transition from vegan to kinda vegan.

A second Via Tevere, Grano’s vegan offerings, a sweet summer patio—how can you complain about that? If you have any grievances, perhaps it’s time for a slice and a close read of the Via Tevere team’s other pizza venture: Don’t Argue.

Via Tevere Main Street will open at 3240 Main Street in May 2024.

The post Breaking: Via Tevere Is Opening Up a Second Location on Main Street appeared first on Vancouver Magazine.

So I felt a mix a joy and trepidation when I heard last fall that Dumont and the rest of the Oca family were planning on reopening the restaurant as Magari by Oca. As is typical with Dumont, the event was low key: no PR, no news releases, just a simple change of the Instagram handle from Oca Pastificio to Magari by Oca and a short announcement. The parameters would be mostly unchanged: same room, open four nights a week, no reservations. But the ultimate factor—the food—remained a question mark. One of the ironies of Oca was that Dilabio, by all accounts shy and self-effacing, was front and centre, making the evening’s fare by hand. It was a situation born of necessity given the size of the room, but it quickly became Oca’s calling card. It tasted like the freshest pasta in town, and the proof was a mere 15 feet away from you.

Walking through the threshold of the new restaurant feels completely natural—which simultaneously feels completely unnatural, an Inception-esque alternate reality where things stay permanently unchanged. The decor is the same, the crew is mostly the same, there’s the same chalkboard menu listing what’s on offer. But where Dilabio would normally be standing is chef Gus Dixon, a veteran from the Oca kitchen, and beside him is Robbie Barbeau as sous (he started apprenticing under Dilabio when he was just 19). It’s a cold Thursday, but the full room is buzzing with an eclectic mix: one woman is wearing an off-the-shoulder, Pininfarina-red ball gown, a bloom in a sea of Blundstones and Arc’teryx. The ages skew younger than on my past few visits, with Dumont later confiding that a lot of the diners had no history with Oca at all—they’re just coming to some new place called Magari that they’d heard good things about.

I figure the fairest path would be simply to order what I had on my last go-around—the pasta tasting menu, a carbfest of the highest order. The opening salvo is a simple but ample charcuterie platter, and even this now de rigueur starter has touches that bring a smile. First and foremost, they use the criminally underloved speck over ubiquitous prosciutto, a small but telling swap-out that tells me I’m among my peeps. Ditto the salad course—forceful fillets of sardines atop some crisp greens and carciofi alla romana. Neither dish is fussy, and Danny Meyer would lose his mind over the casual plating, but both have a vein of authenticity that causes one to say things like “carciofi” when you mean “artichokes.”

And then, the rotolo with squash and smoked caciocavallo cheese and sage butter: as close to a signature dish as Oca ever produced, famously on the cover of our Restaurant Awards issue three years ago. It’s essentially made to order by chef Dixon and it elicits that same hot damn feeling as it did the first time I tasted it. It’s structured and rich, with endless depth, and while so much of the fare at Magari lands in the realm of traditional Italian comfort, this dish is a star in any context.

The dishes that follow each have their own charm. On one end, there’s a stripped-down gnocchi with a light tomato aglione sauce from Barbeau that’s so minimal it would make Donald Judd blush; on the other an orecchiette with lamb ragu from chef Tom Durant (he’s the orecchiette master) that leans hard into the meat’s gaminess alongside the classic Puglian pasta. It’s all so in-a-zone that the only comparable would be that one meal you had in Tuscany while on vacation nine years ago that you won’t shut up about.

The one potential pitfall—that Magari will become the food equivalent of an Oca tribute band—seems to be missing the point. After dinner I look up what the word magari means: maybe. I like to think it’s in the forward-looking sense of the word—as in maybe this kitchen of real friends who aren’t interested in flash-and-dash, friends who came together to find a place where they can cook the type of food that makes them proud with its purity and focus, could be a place that brings joy. And Magari, its tragedies notwithstanding, seems to be the happiest restaurant in town.

The post Reviews: Magari by Oca Continues to Shape Perfect Pasta on the Drive appeared first on Vancouver Magazine.

Though preferences can be divisive (don’t get me started on my ideal morning-potato rant), whether your Saturday requires something soaked in syrup or you’d rather indulge in the savory wonder of biscuits and gravy, one fact is indisputable: there’s a brunch spot for every craving in Kitsilano.

Below are six restaurants that elevate this food writer’s favourite portmanteau into something worthy of getting out of bed for. 

Fable Kitchen

I heard rumors of Fable Kitchen’s Johnny cakes before I even set foot in the city I now call home. Luckily for me, the cornmeal pancakes topped with a mountain of sauce-laden pulled pork, tomato jam, and pickled jalapenos live up to the hype. Though I consider myself a loyal orderer, the farm-to-table brunch fare at Fable has me switching up my Saturday go-to thanks to things like rotating feature bennys and caramelized challah french toast. Hot tip: upgrade your breakfast potatoes to the rosti (with chive sour cream!) and thank me later. 

Address: 1944 W 4th Ave. 

Hours: 11 a.m to 2 p.m, 5 p.m to 10 p.m Monday to Friday; 9 a.m to 2 p.m, 5 p.m to 10 p.m Saturday; 9 a.m to 2 p.m, 5 p.m to 9 p.m Sunday 

Jam Cafe 

Are you truly a Vancouverite if you haven’t lined up for brunch outside of Jam Cafe? Sure, the wait can be long, but the restaurant’s Insta-worthy stacks of creative pancakes (I’m looking at you, cinnamon bun topped with cream cheese icing) and savory delicacies (like the buffalo blue benny, that yes, has both fried chicken and blue cheese) are worth the wait. For those more interested in the lunch side of a midday meal, the meat me in little Italy sandwich has chorizo-based meatballs. Need I say more? 

Address: 2153 W 4th Ave. 

Hours: 8 a.m to 2:30 p.m Monday to Friday; 8 a.m to 3 p.m Saturday and Sunday

Their There

There are many reasons why Their There deserves a spot on this list. From the nitro espresso martinis to the beef brisket hash (yes, the potatoes of said hash are of the vastly superior tot variety) to fresh, made-in-house mochi donuts (don’t sleep on these)—but the main reason is that the breakfast sandwich is one of the city’s finest. The brioche bun is the pinnacle of buttery perfection, the egg is expertly folded and chive-dotted, the sprouts cut through the richness of the classic sauce and best of all, the cheese is American. I’m not saying that through a lens of homeland bias. I love a gourmet $15 cheese as much as the next sticker-shocked millennial. But the nostalgic nature of the ultra-melty cheese makes this sandwich a must-eat. 

Address: 2042 W 4th Ave. 

Hours: 9 a.m to 4 p.m Tuesday to Sunday

Au Comptoir 

Sometimes you just want to eat half a dozen crispy fried duck wings at 11 a.m. It’s just a fact of life. And on those days, Au Comptoir not only has the answer to your cravings, but it also rounds out your morning with even more decadent, elevated brunch fare. From an herby, gruyere French omelet to a buckwheat waffle topped with onion mornay, ham, and a soft poached egg—the dishes will transport you to a bistro in Paris. 

Address: 2278 W 4th Ave. 

Hours: 8 a.m to 9 p.m Wednesday to Thursday, and Sunday; 8 a.m to 10 p.m Friday to Saturday; Closed Monday and Tuesday

Chewies Chicken & Biscuits

Chewie’s menu is eclectic and wide-ranging (think everything from perogies to a slice of N.Y. cheesecake). But we’re here for brunch, and since you’re reading this you’re under my guidance; which means I’m about to wax poetic about the best biscuits in the city. They’re fluffy, they’re buttery, they’re flaky perfection—and they’re somehow even better than the sum of their parts when topped with sausage gravy or fried chicken. I haven’t had a biscuit this good since my Tennessee-born grandma used to serve them up alongside dinner. Yes, you might need a midday nap. Also yes? The meal might be the best decision you’ve made all week. 

Address: 2822 W 4th Ave. 

Hours: 10 a.m to 8 p.m Everyday 

Delara 

Delara’s Persian fare is not your average brunch. Dining here all but guarantees that your next dozen conversations will include recommending its kookoo sabzi sandwich (herb, walnut, barberry fritters with feta, lemon mayo and greens) or raving about their seasonal dips and seedy sourdough flatbread. Before you ask, yes, you can get the walnut, date and cardamon-honey baklava to go alongside your eggs. 

Address: 2272 W 4th Ave. 

Hours: 12 p.m to 9 p.m Monday to Friday; 11 a.m to 9 p.m Saturday and Sunday

The post Where to Find The Best Brunch in Kits appeared first on Vancouver Magazine.

Mama Said Pizza Co. makes for an ideal post-brewery-crawl stop, with its wild and wonderful pies: think the Mama (prosciutto, pesto and a hot-honey drizzle; $25 for a 14-incher) or the Bahn Mi (what it sounds like; $27 for a 14-inch pie). Or, go wild and follow Baloro’s lead: “The meatballs are irresistible.” 3135 Murray St.  

Mega Donair makes its own wraps. If you can make your way to the top of the steep, winding asphalt beast that is Clarke Street, you’ve earned your meal—and it’s a neighbourhood fave. “This place is truly the perfect casual lunch spot for great grab-and-go Turkish food,” says Baloro. “Their pita is soft and tasty.” (Wraps from $14.)  912 Clarke Rd.

Rewind Beer Co. is a trippy time warp. The ’90s nostalgia boom has come for craft beer… and Baloro couldn’t be happier. “Rewind Beer Co.’s concept warms the cockles of my Xennial heart,” she laughs. Snag a pint of Dark Crystal Dark Ale ($8 for a pint) and a Detroit-style deep-dish pizza (from $19) and relish in the neon and Turner and Hooch posters. 2809 Murray St.

Rocky Point Ice Cream is always packed for a reason. Scooping ice cream here is the go-to summer job for Port Moody teens, but the room is jammed each summer with kids and families on the other side of the counter, too. Salted caramel is a winning cone; raspberry lime mojito is fresh, fruity and dairy-free. ($6 for a single cone.) 2800 Murray St.

The One Sixty has the best wine list. The elegant, elevated space serves 25 different wines by the glass (along with small plates like duck fat potatoes, $18, or seared scallops with apple bacon jam, $27). “It’s arguably the nicest room in the city,” says Baloro. “It’s a real treat to pop in here after a show at the Evergreen for a flight of wine.”  3141 Murray St. 

What to do between meals in Port Moody

People-watch  from the patio

On a sunny day, grab a coffee and a prime spot on Gallagher Coffee Bar and Café’s big  patio. It’s the best spot to watch people coming and  going down the Newport Village shopping strip.  

Hit the shops

UnMediocre Kitchen Store carries Staub and Rifle Paper Co. goodies; Olive  the Best stocks jam from  the Preservatory along with 25-year balsamic vinegar.  The woman-owned Little Butcher is perfect for sourcing local proteins, while Vivio Flowers is packed with stunning bouquets. 

Swagger ’round  the swamp

Belcarra Regional Park features a ton of great hiking trails (and a gorgeous pier across from Deep Cove), but for a gentler stroll, hit the loop around Woodhaven Swamp.

Fake it till  you make it

The Inlet Theatre has a roster of impersonators and cover bands on its schedule; even if the faux Shania and CCR  aren’t real, the good times sure are.

The post Eat the Suburbs: The Best Places to Eat in Port Moody appeared first on Vancouver Magazine.

What’s on your watch list right now?

“After a long night, I like to put on a mindless show that can make me laugh, like Nathan for You.”

Go-to place to eat in the city?

Duffin’s Donuts or Maruhachi Ramen

Fave spot to soak up Vancouver’s natural beauty? 

Kitsilano parking lot beside the basketball court!

It’s Saturday and you have free time unexpectedly… what are you doing and where are you going?

“I’ll either be dancing or playing billiards at Soho in Yaletown. Also a good chance I’ll be sleeping because most of my friends are industry, and I might not have anyone to hang out with.”

Best greasy spoon diner?

“Bon’s Off Broadway and there shouldn’t be any other answer.”

Best ice cream or dessert in the city?

“Give me Earnest Ice Cream any day.”

What are you reading right now?

“The Estela cookbook by chef Ignacio Mattos happens to also be a  good read.”

What are you listening to?

“I love the Chef’s PSA podcast, but I’m also  very big into African hip hop and R&B lately, like  Nigeria’s Burna Boy  and Rema.”

The post Lightening Round With Chef Rafael Racela of Cómo appeared first on Vancouver Magazine.

But the now twice-as-large Fanny Bay is squeaky clean—owner Malindi Taylor says the chairs are temporary, but otherwise the space is ready to go. So too are the employees: I snuck in for a peek during a little staff wine seminar, and when Taylor prepared some fresh oysters for me (brag alert) one staff walked by and wistfully remarked, “I miss shucking.”

Technically, only one half of the space is “new”—the restaurant took over ownership of the hair salon next door late last year. The wall between the two properties is no more, so Fanny Bay is now flooded with natural light and has lots of extra seating (plus a new private dining room with a gorgeous mural by Kelly Logan).

Kitschy-cool decor (think nets strung across the ceiling and giant bowls shaped like oysters by Searamics) hints at the restaurant’s fun, accessible vibe—chef Tommy Shorthouse admits that seafood, particularly oysters, can be an intimidating cuisine to get into, and is set on making his menu as exciting, intriguing and approachable as possible. There’s the “crabonara,” for starters, a gorgeous green pasta that perfectly balances freshness and decadence, or the paella, a rainbow of rice, veggies and open-shelled treasures.

Summer is busy season for the restaurant, so the timing of this new expansion couldn’t be more perfect—the space is ready to welcome in customers this Friday, April 5.

 

View this post on Instagram

 

A post shared by Vancouver Magazine (@vanmag_com)

The post An Exclusive Look Inside the Newly Expanded Fanny Bay Oyster Bar in Vancouver appeared first on Vancouver Magazine.

Shake It Off

Glenburn Soda Fountain | 4090 Hastings St.

Time travel for the price of a soda at this retro ice cream shop that looks straight out of an Archie comic. On a Friday night (even in winter), Glenburn Soda Fountain is abuzz with kids from one to 92 slurping up shakes (from $7) and spooning up banoffee splits ($14). Sit yourself on a chrome-rimmed stool at the counter and prepare to be overwhelmed by the selection of ice cream treats, including throwback faves like malts ($9), floats ($8) and classic sundaes (from $5). Glenburn now also makes its own ice cream, which you can purchase to-go for $10 a pint. (The ice-cream sandwiches—priced from $6 and featuring housemade cookies and a thick filling of ice cream—are another excellent grab-and-go treat.) Check the hours on Glenburn’s website before heading over, as they open late in the afternoon and, on some days, only in the evenings.

Red Sauce Revelry

Anton’s Pasta Bar | 4260 Hastings St.

This one is a controversial choice so let’s be clear: this isn’t refined Italian dining. But Anton’s Pasta Bar is a legend in the Heights for one (ahem) big reason: the massive portions. Since proprietor Tony Mauro opened the joint back in 1983, locals have lined up and down Hastings Street for piled-high plates of fresh pasta. If you don’t like waiting, here’s a hack: there’s generally no queue at lunch and you can upgrade your meal to the dinner size for just a few extra dollars—and then feed your family with the leftovers.

Order the conchiglie zio carmelo (lunch portion: $23, dinner portion: $26), which features Italian sausage, chicken, pine nuts and spinach in a white wine sauce topped with chili flakes. The shell pasta is the perfect shape to soak up the sauce and the pine nuts add a perfect crunch. Add pancetta for a small extra charge but big extra flavour. (We also love that every meal comes with a crusty-on-the-outside-soft-on-the-inside Portuguese bun, sourced just three doors down from Fortuna Bakery.)

Thai One On

Chad Thai | 4010 Hastings St.

At Chad Thai, the decor is dated, the tables are packed tightly together and there are domestic appliances in the dining room. But trust us: none of that matters. If you’re looking for tasty food and great value, this “Best Thai” winner in Burnaby Now’s 2023 A-list awards is worthy of its title. We particularly love the lunch special (from $16), which includes a bowl of simply delicious chicken broth and a crispy spring roll or deep-fried wontons, plus your choice from nearly 20 traditional Thai rice and noodle dishes. The pad see ew is our go-to order: wide rice noodles sprinkled with big crunchy chunks of carrots and gai lan, as well as egg and your choice of stir-fried chicken, pork or beef in dark soy sauce. The plum sauce that comes with the starters is housemade; ask for extra to throw on top of your main for that sweet and sour final touch.

Mambo Italiano

Cioffi’s Meat Market, Deli and Cucina | 4156, 4142 and 4150 Hastings St.

Since 1990, Cioffi’s has gradually been taking over the retail block of 4100 Hastings Street and now operates a deli, meat market and restaurant/ catering operation between Gilmore and Carleton avenues. At the deli, locals cram themselves into the narrow aisles to shop the vast selection of pantry essentials, antipasti, cold cuts and cheeses (burrata flown in weekly from Italy, anyone?). Other must-grabs include Mama Cioffi’s tomato sauce, fresh veal ravioli and homemade Italian pork sausages from the meat market. And while it’s not cheap at $38 for two to four servings, Cioffi’s frozen lasagna tastes just like (or maybe even better than?) homemade and comes in meat, pesto and vegetarian options. Don’t feel like cooking? Head next door to Cioffi’s Cucina for ready-to-eat Italian fare like pasta, pizza, panini and more. 

Family Ties

Brokenrice/Chao Mami  4088 Hastings St.

Family-owned and -operated Brokenrice has long been the place to go in the Heights for traditional Vietnamese crowd-pleasers like chicken wings, pho and vermicelli bowls. And though it’ll change names this spring to Chao Mami (“Hello, Mom” in Vietnamese) under the helm of manager/son Steven Nguyen, most of the classics will stay on the menu. Nguyen has some tricks up his sleeve, too: new offerings will include dishes like bún riêu (Vietnamese crab noodle soup) and chè bưởi (pomelo sweet soup). As always, though, the jalapeño basil fried chicken wings ($14) are so crispy that you’ll hear each bite you take. Every piece is bursting with flavour; control the spice level with the jalapeños that are loosely chopped and placed atop the dish.

Sweet  Valley High

Valley Bakery | 4058 Hastings St.

In 2023, Burnaby residents were heartbroken when Valley Bakery owner Jack Kuyer announced his retirement and the end of a 66-year legacy. But only five days after closing its doors on August 19, this neighbourhood haunt reopened under new management, who have since maintained most of the longtime staff and original recipes—much to the community’s delight. Locals have flocked to this spot for decades to grab quintessential buttercream-frosted birthday cakes, European-style cookies and pastries, freshly baked loaves and traditional holiday favourites like hot cross buns (all made onsite!). We love the cheddar cheese bread ($6) and flaky puff pastry cinnamon butterfly cookies ($6/dozen). 

What to do between meals in Burnaby

Clip in, race on

The Burnaby Velodrome Club is just one of three indoor bike racing courses in all of Canada—and the ideal place to see if all that time on the Peloton has paid off. 

Loop the loop

The trail around Deer Lake is the perfect length for a catch-up with a friend and offers a constantly changing landscape as your backdrop. (Nearby, Deer Lake Park is one of the Lower Mainland’s best outdoor concert venues.) 

Shop til you drop

Balk at the name if you must, but the Amazing Brentwood is, well, pretty sweet. Extensive upgrades (architecturally and programming-wise) have turned this into a true shopping destination—think Sporting Life and H&M Home.  

The post Eat the Suburbs: These Are the Best Places to Eat in Burnaby Heights appeared first on Vancouver Magazine.

Fiorino

212 E. Georgia St.

“During the day, if I need five minutes away I always find myself here,” says Hart of the Italian joint just steps away from Laowai and Bagheera in Chinatown. “The lunch specials and vibe are exactly what I’m looking for, and I get to just be in my own peace of mind.” His order? A Preferito sandwich with prosciutto di parma, provolone, porcini mushroom crema, and arugula, and an Americano.

Meo Chinatown

265 E. Pender St.

Tucked under Kissa Tanto in Chinatown is brand-new cocktail bar Meo, where Hart “immediately fell in love” with their Spicy Margarita, mixed with Altos Blanco Tequila, melon milk, lime, and agave. “They have a good play on it, listing all the different peppers you can order, from ghost pepper to jalapeno. That way there’s no subjectivity on whether it’s too hot, or not hot enough—you choose your pepper, so you know the heat level you’re getting.”

Sula Indian Restaurant

Various locations

“I get on great with [owner Sharath Vittal]… he’s such a friendly face and we always have a great conversation.” Hart can’t ever pick a favourite dish because as soon as the menu hits the table, he’s got four or five tasty tasting plates in front of him—it’s always chef’s choice. “I also just love operators where the whole team is invested; they enjoy going to work, enjoy what they cook.”

Botanist Bar

1038 Canada Pl.

When it’s time for a cocktail break, Hart is sipping the Botanist Marine Martini with dry gin, house vermouth, kombu, chive oil and sea asparagus. “The team over there is great, they’ve got so many of the industry OGs,” he says. “Again, I go to places where the company is good more than anything else—it’s just helpful when you have a favourite thing.”

Como Taperia

201 East 7th Ave.

“To feel like I’m in Spain, even just for a little bit,” Hart will head into Mount Pleasant’s Como for a quick bite of whatever appeals from the rotating tapas menu. “I’ve still got about 10 [of their take-home tins of sardines, etc.] for my charcuterie boards at home.”

Oyama Sausage Co.

1689 Johnston St.

To finish building those charcuterie boards, Hart hits Oyama in Granville Island. “If I have traveling bartenders in town, friends, or family, I always head to the island to show them all the true Canadian bites—but mainly we go for Oyama,” he says. “Everything is good, but a lot of people that aren’t from Canada haven’t tried bison or elk so when you have a really good smoked elk it’s quite the experience.”

Tacofino

Various locations

As a family with two little ones, Hart finds himself getting sushi takeout a lot (Mr. Sushi or Sushi Town are top choices), but when it’s date night, he and his wife head to Tacofino for the laid-back vibes and tried-and-true fish tacos with tempura Pacific cod, cabbage, salsa fresca and chipotle mayo. 

Nuba 

Various locations

Another date spot is Hart’s wife’s favourite, Nuba—she orders, he helps eat—and it always includes the wildly popular Najib’s Special (crispy cauliflower tossed with sea salt and lemon) and the Garden Falafel lunch platter plate served with hummus, salad, pickled cabbage, and organic brown rice. 

More Eater’s Gotta Eat Feature Foodies

• Shiva Reddy of Burdock and Co
• Phil Scarafone of Savio Volpe (and More)
• Nikki Tam of Minami

The post Eaters Gotta Eat: Where Laowai and Bagheera Owner Lewis Hart Loves to Eat (and Find a Little Quiet Time) in Vancouver appeared first on Vancouver Magazine.